Bulova Accutron Astronaut

X15 Pilot wearing Accutron Astronaut

Bulova Accutron Astronaut

When the first Accutron tuning fork watches were released to the public in 1960 they were seen as nothing short of revolutionary. The Astronaut was (and still is) the ultimate expression of this extraordinary period in watch technology. The smooth sweep of the second hand, the soothing hum of the motor, the hidden crown, the flying saucer appearance all loudly proclaimed 'THE FUTURE IS HERE'. It was science-fiction brought to life for a cold-war generation.

The background - A SpaceView

Accutron Spaceview

The Bulova Accutron was the world’s first fully electronic watch. Rolled out under worldwide scrutiny at the World’s Watchmaking Fair in Basel, Switzerland (now called Baselworld) in 1960, the watch incorporated a revolutionary new technology that utilized a 360-Herz tuning fork, powered by a one-transistor electronic oscillator, to drive the timekeeping functions rather than a traditional balance wheel. The brainchild of Bulova engineer (and Basel native) Max Hetzel, this technology ensured an oscillation rate of 360 times per second — nearly 150 times faster than that of a mechanical, balance-wheel-driven timepiece — and guaranteed an accuracy to just one minute per month. The Accutron was distinguished by its telltale humming instead of ticking, a sound generated by the vibrating tuning fork.

The first Accutron model, called Spaceview 214 and featuring its now-famous open dial showing off the high-tech movement, also deviated from traditional wristwatch design with its lack of setting stem and crown on the side of the watch; these elements were instead placed on the back of the case. The Accutron has been the cornerstone of Bulova’s portfolio ever since.

The Moon Connection

Bulova also lent its expertise to the U.S. government during the late-1960s Space Race with the Soviet Union. During its decades-long partnership with the National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA), Bulova helped outfit numerous satellite missions with Accutron timekeeping technology, starting with the Vanguard 1 in 1958. All timekeeping instruments, including instrument-panel clocks, aboard NASA’s manned spacecraft missions leading up to and including the legendary first Moon Walk on July 21, 1969, were equipped with Bulova Accutron tuning fork technology. (At the time, even NASA scientists could not know how a mechanical timekeeper would function in low-gravity conditions.) Of course, watch history buffs are well aware that it was the Omega Speedmaster Professional (now appropriately nicknamed the Moonwatch) that won the right to be official NASA watch and hence the first watch worn on the moon during the historic Apollo 11 mission in 1969. Fewer may realize that astronaut Buzz Aldrin also placed a Bulova Accutron timer in the Sea of Tranquility to help transmit critical data transmissions.

Genesis 1962 - The Astronaut

1962 Accutron

In 1962 Bulova produced the Astronaut, a 214-based GMT timepiece with a 24-hour rotating bezel, secondary 24-hour hand and hack function. The Astronaut was initially developed by Bulova for the US space program, but ultimately found its greatest success in the consumer market. The Astronaut is the only timepiece to use the 214HN sub-caliber, widely considered to be the ultimate Accutron movement.

The hand-set first used on the new all stainless steel Accutron GMT watch (which had yet to be named Astronaut) was lifted from the Bulova Timer Labs and was the Bulova Accutron Hand Set P/n WS-25 white spade Bulova had already been using on all the aerospace clocks and timers. This watch was given to and used by all the X-15 Test Pilots and they would be all too familiar with the dial and hand layout as it mirrored those in the cockpit.

There was one Accutron Astronaut watch made before the 1962 version with a date code M1 (1961) but it was a 18k Solid Gold Astronaut watch (possible known as the "Royal" Astronaut)

NOS 1962 Astronaut

Features

• Manufacture Year - 1962
• Movement Model - 214HN, 17Jewel
• Case Serial No. E94654
• Case shape - Round
• Case Manufacturer - Bulova
• Crystal- Ref. # 1245 31.0 mm
• Hands - Set P/n WS-25
• Dial - black
• Bracelet - early type applied logo Kreisler USA Coffin Link Stainless Steel Bracelet

The Accutron Astronaut M2 (stamped to rear and the year indication eg M2 = 1962, M3 = 1963 etc) was the first stainless steel Astronaut ever made. It's unclear if they were ever released for sale to the general public. The dial only says "Accutron" on it. The hands and markers are of white non-luminous paint.

1962 Astronaut

Evolution of the Astronaut

The Accutron Astronaut definitely evolved very quickly. The company gives the following letter designations to the model - Astronaut C, H, L, N, O and T. Here is a VERY brief recap of the myriad changes in the model over its lifetime.

Bezels

• Standard: Bare metal with engraved black numerals and half-hour indices; available in stainless steel, solid 14K gold and solid 18K gold.
• Day/Night: Inlaid bezel face with 12 hours of white and 12 hours of black; stainless steel only; used only on Type 3 variants.
• Swiss: Inlaid black bezel face; stainless steel only; used only on Type 4 variants.

Cases

• Stainless Steel (SS): Standard lugs, used with all stainless steel Astronaut variants.
• 14K Gold Filled (14KF): Covered lugs, used with most gold Astronaut variants.
• 14K Solid Gold (14K): Covered lugs, used only with the Solid Enhanced variant.
• 18K Solid Gold (18K): Standard lugs, used only with the Ultra Enhanced variant.

Dials

• Standard: Triangular luminous painted hour markers, luminous painted dots at the half-hour markers; available in black and silver; may say 'ACCUTRON', 'BULOVA ACCUTRON' or 'ACCUTRON BULOVA' (rare).
• Simple: Nearly identical to the standard dial, but with no luminous dots at the half-hour markers; available in silver, factory black variation unconfirmed.
• Enhanced: Applied trapezoidal markers at 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10, 11; available in black, silver and gold; applied markers match case color.
• Ultra: Applied diamond-shaped markers at 3, 6, 9; available in gold only, used only on Ultra Enhanced variant.
• Day/Night: Applied pointed markers at all hour positions, applied Accutron lettering; available in black and silver; used only on Type 3 variants.
• Swiss: Painted Accutron logo at 12, applied baton hour markers at all other positions; available in black and cream; used only on Type 4 variants.

Hands

• Pointed: Luminous hour and minute hands are non-tapering, with an pointed tip; used only on certain Type 1 variants.
• Dauphine: Luminous hour and minute hands are wide and dauphine, with an pointed tip; used on some Type 1 variants, and all Type 2 and 3 variants.
• Baton: Luminous hour and minute hands are wide and non-tapering, with a flat tip. Baton hands are only available on Type 4 variants.
• Luminous Seconds (LS): Certain variants of Type 1 and Type 3 Astronaut include a luminous seconds hand. Luminous seconds is not available on Type 2 or 4 variants.
• Large Minute (LM): One Type 1 variant is known to use a large, tapered minute hand.
• Broadhead Hour (BH): Certain variants of Type 1 Astronaut with pointed hands include a rare broadhead pointed hour hand. Broadhead hour is not available on Type 2, 3 or 4 variants.

Bracelets

Only two bracelet styles are confirmed to have been used on the Astronaut:

• Kreisler 'coffin-link' bracelet
• Champion 'bullet' bracelet.

Bracelet must match case material and have a signed clasp with the Accutron logo. If the clasp is unsigned or signed 'BULOVA', it is not original. Duchess small coffin bracelet has also been seen Astronauts.

Evolution by Year

1963 Bulova started making the all stainless steel Astronaut in 1962 and sometime around late 1962 / early 1963 they changed the first type of hands to the luminous hands which are the most commonly seen. At the same time luminous paint was added to the dial hour markers to match the luminous hands. Other than that one change to the dial it is exactly the same as the very first dial to be used in the all stainless steel 1962 Astronaut watches. Late 1963 Bulova added "Astronaut" to the dial and also added the large luminous dots in-between the now luminous hour markers. Stanless steel silver dials now also seen.

1964 Bulova name begins to appear on dial above Accutron.In rare cases below! The "bullet" bracelet introduced.

1965 Applied metal logo and hour indices appear on some dials

1968 Black 24 hour bezel appears.

Credits

• https://www.watchtime.com/featured/the-history-of-bulova-through-10-milestone-bulova-watches/
• https://mybulova.com/watches/1962-accutron-astronaut-8039
• http://www.decadecounter.com/accutron/astronaut.htm

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