Croton Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster: Difference between revisions
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==[[ Nivada Chronoking]]== | ==[[ Nivada Chronoking]]== | ||
The Chronoking was a date version using the Landeron 234 with a 45minute register. It has the same case dimensions and appearance as the Valjoux 23 version from the mid-1960s. Click on the link above to discover more. | The Chronoking was a date version using the Landeron 234 with a 45minute register. It has the same case dimensions and appearance as the Valjoux 23 CASD version from the mid-1960s. Click on the link above to discover more. | ||
==Links== | ==Links== |
Revision as of 16:54, 16 January 2025
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Croton Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster
Nivada hit a legal hurdle when trying to sell in the USA, thanks to Movado who felt that their names were too similar and would confuse consumers. A judge ruled that adding ‘Grenchen’ to the title would suffice, and so watches sold thereafter are labeled as such.
In 1940 Croton was formed to distribute Nivada watches to US retailers, and subsequent watches could be found bearing the name ‘Croton’, or ‘Croton Nivada’ or even ‘Croton Nivada Grenchen’. By the ‘60s, Nivada had hit their stride with watches like the Chronomaster, Aviator, Sea Diver. The unique design and functionality of these watches struck a high note with consumers, and Nivada saw their exports go from 52,000 in 1964 to 173,000 in 1969 as a result. Croton also worked with jewellry stores to promote their wares, with a number of shop branded examples shown below.
The CASD is a classic 1960s diver going through several iterations (like the Omega Speedmaster), with tritium, radium, broad arrow and baton hands, brown chocolate aged dials etc etc. They now have a big following, greatly enhanced by the recent Chronomaster Only book in 2018. The model has recently been reissued by Nivada in both manual and automatic versions but retaining a faithful appearance to the original.
The Chronomaster Riddle
All early versions bore the name ChronoGRAPH Aviator SeaDiver on the dial up to 1965. This has always been a subject of confusion as the marketing materials for adverts in the US bore the name Chronomaster, as seen in period magazines such as Sports Illustrated, from end of 1960 onwards. After some digging with fellow members of the Nivada Watches Whatapp group, we think an answer has been found.
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Looking at when the name Chronomaster was registered by various watch companies provided valuable information. It seems Croton were first in 1960. In the US only however. Nivada did not register the same name until 1965. For what reason there was a delay of 5 years is lost in the mists of time. However it is possibly due to an informal agreement with Omega who in 1957 had launched the Speedmaster. In 1965 the Speedmaster Professional appeared. This may have allowed Nivada the opportunity to finally legally secure the name. However Movado beat them to it! An odd decision as there is no record of Movado using the name, although Zenith did register it in 1984. Movado and Zenith were partners in the 1970s. This is of course conjecture. If anyone can provide more information please do so.
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What is clear is that Nivada, via the Croton registration, intended from inception in 1960 to use the Chronomaster as a brand name. In 1965 they could finally use it on the dial…
After the quartz crisis of the late 1970s and financial issues in the 1980s the re-registration was not done and the name ceased as part of Nivada. Croton continued to use it on various models post 1968.
Zenith and Movado merged in 1968 to form Movado-Zenith. They later merged with Mondia in 1969 to become Movado-Zenith-Mondia. This allowed Movado to sell in Europe. Which they did. Movado with Turler branding has been seen for example. This then negated the reason for Nivada not being allowed to sell in the US. The two companies then began to market separately although they continued to share the same DNA in the watch range with Antarctic and CASD models.
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Model One - straight lugs 1961 to circa 1971
This is the version covered in the Chronomaster Only book and most popular with collectors. They will appear with a variety of brand names. There are 5 main versions depending on the movement:
Venus 210
The very earliest versions have Chronograph rather than Chronomaster on the dial. Up to 1963 the dials and hands are radium with no T on dial. They are often found with browning dials due to a faulty lacquer used by Singer, the dial manufacturer. See also the VJ7733 models for the same problem in late 1969/70.
Valjoux 92
Short term replacement for the old Venus 210 movement. Quickly replaced by the VJ23
Valjoux 23
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The movement seen in most Nivada versions from 1963 to late 1960s.
Landeron 248
Used by Croton post 1966.
Valjoux 7733
Seen in all the late 1960s models onwards. Robust reliable movement used by hundreds of watch manufacturers and retailers.
Other Branded Versions
The CASD has been seen with the following company names, all being done with Croton in the USA and normally local jewelry stores:
Rudolph's Dependable
Jewellry chain in upstate New York near Albany. Close to the Croton headquarters. VCery rare model made in 1961-62 only with radium dial and hands. Dial marked Chronograph and not Chronometer. Seen with Venus 210 and Valjoux 92 movements.
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Pierre Vallee
Trademark first used anywhere: : 12/14/1966 - possibly a Chicago-based jewellry chain
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Austin Premier
The brand Austin was created by Gordon Jewelers of Austin Texas.
GUILDCREST
Southwestern Wholesale Jewelry Company.
SUSSEX
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Read more about Sussex here
LE MARC 100
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LeMarc's were sold exclusively by the Jewel Box - a southern USA regional jewellery chain. This example has a very brown tropical dial, typical of those black dials made by Singer circa 1969-1970.
PAUL DUPREE
Believed to be a subsiduary of Croton. Valjoux 7733. Ref 107- ***?
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Film and TV appearances
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The CASD was seen regularly on the wrist of Brian Kelly, star of the Flipper films and TV series. He also wore it in several films including "Around The World Under The Sea".
Model Two - cushion case circa 1971 to 1978
Most with similar dials but in new background colourways such as green and red. Valjoux 7733 found in most examples. For more on the Series Two CASDs please click here.
Nivada Chronoking
The Chronoking was a date version using the Landeron 234 with a 45minute register. It has the same case dimensions and appearance as the Valjoux 23 CASD version from the mid-1960s. Click on the link above to discover more.