Tudor and Rolex Bracelets
Evolution of Oyster Bracelet Links
Oyster bracelet has been a staple in the Rolex and Tudor range for more than seventy years. Rolex first patented the Oyster bracelet design in 1947 and presented it to the public the following year in 1948. However, it’s important to note that the origins of the Oyster bracelet date back to the Bonklip style Rolex bracelets that were outsourced to bracelet manufacturer Gay Frères during the 1930s/1940s.
The links of the Oyster bracelet have always been flat and the links have evolved over the years. There have been riveted links, folded links, and solid links. Over the years, the “rivet” style links would be replaced by a thicker “folded” style, before finally being phased out in favor of solid links, which give the bracelet its modern character. However for many, those hollow links from the early days have a certain charm that pure functionality cannot beat.
6635/6636
- Riveted and expandable links
- 19 mm / 20 mm
- 1954
7205/7206
- Riveted
- 19 mm / 20 mm
- 1954
7835/7836
- Folded
- 19 mm / 20 mm
- 1967
9315
Folded with Diver Clasp 20 mm 1969
9316
Folded with Diver Clasp 20 mm (Sea-Dweller) 1969
78350/78360
- Solid
- 19 mm / 20 mm
- 1975
93150
- Solid (w/ Diver Clasp)
- 20 mm
- 1975
93160
Solid (w/ Diver Clasp) 20 mm 1978
The Rolex Jubilee Bracelet
Dressier than the Oyster bracelet, the Jubilee bracelet made its debut in 1945 on the then-new Datejust timepiece. Its five-piece links construction includes three thinner interior links flanked by larger links. These two different link sizes are especially noticeable on two-tone Rolesor versions when the interior links are in yellow or Everose gold. It is one of Rolex’s dressier bracelet styles, available in a bevy of metal options and sizes.
While the overall look of the Jubilee bracelet has remained largely the same since its introduction, a closer look at the links reveals some notable modifications over the years. There have been folded links, oval links, D-shaped links, and solid links. Before Rolex became the vertically integrated giant it is today, the company outsourced the manufacturing of certain parts to specialists—standard practice in horology back in the day. Some bracelets were even manufactured in the USA and Mexico and these bracelets had distinct oval-shaped links.
The Rolex President Bracelet
The Rolex President bracelet was first introduced on the inaugural Day-Date watch in 1956. Its signature semi-circular three-piece links are instantly recognizable and highly sought-after. Rolex only ever produces the President bracelet in precious metals—never in steel. There are yellow, white, and rose gold, as well as, platinum versions of the President bracelet. For ultra-lavish versions, there are also some diamond President bracelets available too.
The President bracelet is exclusive to all Day-Date watches—Day-Date 36, Day-Date II, and Day-Date 40—as well as some precious metal Lady-Datejust and Datejust 31 models.
Over the years, Rolex made some noteworthy versions of the President bracelet including the Tridor variety where the center links had a mix of three shades of gold. For a short time in the late 1970s and early 1980s, Rolex also manufactured some President bracelets with bark-like accents on the center links.
