Tudor and Rolex Bracelets

Evolution of Oyster Bracelet Links

Oyster bracelet has been a staple in the Rolex and Tudor range for more than seventy years. Rolex first patented the Oyster bracelet design in 1947 and presented it to the public the following year in 1948. However, it’s important to note that the origins of the Oyster bracelet date back to the Bonklip style Rolex bracelets that were outsourced to bracelet manufacturer Gay Frères during the 1930s/1940s.

The links of the Oyster bracelet have always been flat and the links have evolved over the years. There have been riveted links, folded links, and solid links. Over the years, the “rivet” style links would be replaced by a thicker “folded” style, before finally being phased out in favor of solid links, which give the bracelet its modern character. However for many, those hollow links from the early days have a certain charm that pure functionality cannot beat.

6635/6636

• Riveted and expandable links
• 19 mm / 20 mm
• 1954

7205/7206

• Riveted
• 19 mm / 20 mm
• 1954

7835/7836

• Folded
• 19 mm / 20 mm
• 1967

9315

Folded with Diver Clasp 20 mm 1969

9316

Folded with Diver Clasp 20 mm (Sea-Dweller) 1969

78350/78360

• Solid
• 19 mm / 20 mm
• 1975

93150

• Solid (w/ Diver Clasp)
• 20 mm
• 1975

93160

Solid (w/ Diver Clasp) 20 mm 1978

The Rolex Jubilee Bracelet

Dressier than the Oyster bracelet, the Jubilee bracelet made its debut in 1945 on the then-new Datejust timepiece. Its five-piece links construction includes three thinner interior links flanked by larger links. These two different link sizes are especially noticeable on two-tone Rolesor versions when the interior links are in yellow or Everose gold. It is one of Rolex’s dressier bracelet styles, available in a bevy of metal options and sizes.

While the overall look of the Jubilee bracelet has remained largely the same since its introduction, a closer look at the links reveals some notable modifications over the years. There have been folded links, oval links, D-shaped links, and solid links. Before Rolex became the vertically integrated giant it is today, the company outsourced the manufacturing of certain parts to specialists—standard practice in horology back in the day. Some bracelets were even manufactured in the USA and Mexico and these bracelets had distinct oval-shaped links